 In
addition to discouraging geese, and reducing erosion and silting of the
lakes, the planting of native trees and shrubs instead of grass, has
another important benefit to our streams and lakes that feed the Neuse
River Basin. Less lawn means less watering and fertilizer, and
therefore, fewer nutrients in our streams and rivers.
When fertilizer is spread on lawns and gardens a good chunk of it ends up in our lakes and rivers the next time it rains. Nitrogen and phosphorus are fertilizer nutrients that can degrade surface water quality by stimulating algae blooms. Landscaping with native plants and shrubs also requires little or no water and maintenance. Think of it...
Less work for you and much less impact on water quality and supplies. You'll use much less water, and almost no pollutants will run from your yard into our sewers, ditches, creeks, rivers and Lakes. Think of the time and money that you'll save and how you'll be helping save our streams and rivers. Click here fore more tips on water quality and lawn care from the NC Cooperative Extension. If you must fertilize, follow the fertilizer tips and guidelines established by the NC Cooperative Extension, Wake County Center, Phone: (919) 250-1100, Fax: (919)250-1097. When it comes to fertilizer, MORE IS NOT BETTER for lawns, for you (more mowing!), or for our lakes and streams. Because nitrogen moves freely with water, water-soluble fertilizer should be avoided. Instead, apply only fertilizers that are composed of slow-release sources of nitrogen. Do not over fertilize -- cut your fertilizer rate in half and apply only to cool-season grasses when they are green but not actively growing (in early spring or near end of growing season). Information provided by the NC Cooperative Extension and the Neuse River Foundation. http://www.neuseriver.org/lawn.html
by Dr. Carl A. Matyac, Wake County Cooperative Extension service at N.C. State University (The News & Observer, February 9, 2002)
We all want to reduce our exposure to herbicides, insecticides and fungicides, which can cause environmental and health problems when used incorrectly.
Many homeowners want to eliminate them from the garden. Since many of these materials are recommended for lawn care, the apparent conclusion was to eliminate lawns as well. This is not the only alternative. Part of the problem is that we have made lawn care a high input activity by focusing on maximum plant performance. We grow grass as if the Super Bowl would be played on our front yard. In reality, most of us just want a patch of green that looks good most of the year. So I propose an alternative called the Low Input Guide to a Healthy Lawn. I'd like to suggest that you can have an attractive, healthy stand of tall fescue with little work as long as you follow these rules:
1. Have your soil tested. 2. Cut your fertilizer rate in half but apply it at the correct time. 3. Mow your grass at the proper height. 4. Recycle clippings. 5. Consider warm season grasses in hot, dry areas. 6. Look for alternative landscape plants in areas where turf does not thrive.
Soil testing
The key to a healthy lawn is providing some type of nutritional supplement.
Just like taking care that the car is maintained before starting a long trip or making sure the kids don't skip breakfast, a balanced diet is good for turf as well.
Soil testing gives us a picture of the complex material we call soil. After diagnosing thousands of landscape problems, it is my observation that it is usually the basics that are ignored, such as pH. The pH of the soil determines the lime recommendation. Lime is cheap and does wonderful things for the soil. By increasing the pH of the soil, limestone unlocks soil nutrients so they can be absorbed by plant roots and supplies added calcium and magnesium. Soil containers and information sheets can be obtained from any county Extension center or the soil test lab.
Reduce fertilizer rates
This can easily be done by elimination of spring and summer fertilization. Surveys tell us that many homeowners continue to fertilize in the spring and summer, yet this is not when turf needs it the most. Instead think of fall and winter as the best time to do this work.
In addition, do the math to calculate how much is really required. Just because you have 40 lbs. in the bag does not mean that it all has to be applied! Simply divide the first number on the bag (that would be, for example, the "10" in 10-10-10) into 100. This is the number of pounds required to apply the standard recommendations of 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of turf. Measure the area to be fertilized, then weigh out the correct amount. Make one application now, then wait till next fall around October or November for a second application.
Mow at the proper height
Tall fescue, the most common turf grass in the area, should be mowed at 3 inches.
Do me a favor. Stop reading right now. Go to the desk and find a ruler. Make a fist and measure the height of your hand. This is just about 3.5 inches. The next time you drag the mower out of the garage to cut the grass, take the time to measure the cutting height with your pre-calibrated measuring apparatus (your fist).
Recycle clippings
Allow the clippings to stay on the lawn and decay. This will recycle about 20 percent of the nutrients needed for a healthy lawn.
If you are mowing once a week there will not be an excessive amount of clippings. If you have been on vacation for two weeks you will probably have to collect clippings. But don't put them in the trash; put them in the compost pile!
Try warm season grasses
If you have been trying to grow tall fescue and have not been successful, examine the site to determine the cause of failure. If the area is in full sun and you choose not to irrigate, consider a warm season grass like Bermuda grass or zoysia. These grasses are very drought-tolerant. They will require irrigation during establishment, but you can cut way back in following years.
Try alternative plantings
This may be a radical step for some. We are talking about a reconsideration of the landscape design. Ornamental grasses, ground covers and many woody ornamentals are very drought tolerant once established. For plant ideas and suggestions visit us at www.ces.ncsu.edu or call your local Extension center: Wake, 250-1084; Orange, 245-2050; and Durham, 560-0526.
Soil samples can also be delivered directly to the lab at 4300 Reedy Creek Road, Raleigh. http://www.neuseriver.org/lawn.html Please do not deposit yard waste in the common areas. Yard waste in the common areas promotes kudzu growth and costs the Association for cleanup. Instead yard waste should be placed at the curb for collection on Wednesdays, taken to the City's Yard Waste Center for recycling (900 New Hope Road, Mon-Sat, 7 a.m. to 3:45 p.m.), or better yet, RECYCLED AT HOME! Grass recycling is one of the easiest ways to improve the appearance of your yard and save money. Just leave your grass clippings on your lawn after mowing, and they will decompose naturally, releasing valuable nutrients (nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium) into the soil saving hundreds on commercial fertilizer. Also, A layer of grass clippings keeps the soil cool, reducing water evaporation (and lawn watering) and keeping your lawn healthy and weed-free. By not raking and bagging, imagine the savings in time, energy and money. Leaving grass clippings on the lawn won’t contribute to thatch build-up. Grass clippings are composed mostly of water and beneficial nutrients. Thatch is comes primarily from roots and stems. Recycled leaves and pine straw also make good mulch for flower beds, gardens, trees and shrubbery. Leaf and pine straw mulch act as natural fertilizer, reduce water evaporation, help control weeds, and prevent soil erosion. Reusing materials normally thrown away also saves money on commercial mulch products. Tree limbs and shrubbery trimmings make excellent may be used to border paths, planting beds or around trees and shrubbery. Composting kitchen scraps, leaves and grass clippings creates a soil enhancer called humus, which helps produce healthier plants. Making compost is as easy. For more information on composting and yard waste recycling, call the City of Raleigh Solid Waste Services at 831-6890 to request a "how to" brochure or visit their website at http://www.raleigh-nc.org/sws/compost.htm |